Laserfiche WebLink
Harvesting Cuttings <br />Once cutting size and source locations have been detennined, the actual cutting process can begin. <br />Lopping shears, pruning shears, a small wood saw, brush cutters, or a chain saw can be used to harvest <br />cuttings. Size of the cuttings will detennine what you use to harvest them. <br />* Ensure all equipment is sharp and make clean cuts. <br />* Use live wood at least 2 year old or older. However, very old wood should not be used (Briggs <br />and Munda 1992; Fenchel et al. 1988). Chmelar (1974) indicated that larger and older wood is <br />required to propagate species that are difficult to root. The best wood is 2-7 years old with <br />smooth bark which is not split or deeply furrowed. <br />* Avoid whips and suckers (current year's growth) because they lack the stored energy reserves <br />necessary to consistently sprout when planted especially in dry conditions. <br />* No more than 1/3 of any individual plant should be removed. In the case of rhizomatous <br />species, no more than 40-50% of the stand should be removed. <br />* Select branches which will not impair the source willows health and appearance. <br />* When harvesting from native stands, ensure the stand will not be denuded or destroyed by your <br />cutting activity. <br />* Consider removing cuttings from inside the crown area rather than the more visually obvious <br />exterior area. Try to spread your harvesting activity throughout the stand. <br />* Remove the apical bud plus several inches off of the cutting. The apical bud (bud at the tip of <br />the branch) draws too much energy from stored reserves, reducing the chance of survival. Its <br />removal will reroute energy to the side buds including the root buds. The upper part of the <br />12 <br />